Decoding Labels: Understanding Greenwashing and Green Beauty Marketing

Shopping for new beauty or personal care products should be fun. Promises of performance or the ability to improve an area of concern can be exciting. Unfortunately, there is often more to the process that requires the consumer to be able to decode the images and words being advertised to them. Who knew shopping for new hair products or cosmetics could be so complicated? To understand greenwashing and beauty marketing tactics is imperative to being an informed shopper. But what does that really mean for the consumer?

Greenwashing is running rampant on the shelves across the country, on commercials playing on network TV, print materials, social media and beyond. The term “Greenwashing” refers to intentionally deceptive marketing practices that make the consumer believe there is a “green”, “natural”, or “eco-friendly” component to the product. Something as simple as a green leaf on a label or even the color green can connote health and wellness to the consumer.

Who is in charge here?…

The green beauty space is the fastest growing segment of the beauty industry. According to Fast Company, brands naturally and/or botanically derived now represent the largest combined share of prestige skin care sales. In 2017, they accounted for all gains in the category. Because of this, brands are jumping on this bandwagon and trying to ride the green beauty wave.   Flashy marketing, green labels (I mean actual green labels; green denotes health in color psychology), key words or pictures.

First, let’s remember that no one is really policing the labeling of personal care products. There are a few guidelines, and I mean a few, it’s kind of the wild west of products out there. Anything goes. The majority of guidelines required by the FDA are regarding listing ingredients (not the accuracy, but the actual format). Guidelines covering the “Trade Secret Act” allow brands to not disclose fragrance ingredients and require only drugs or active ingredients be listed. And don’t get me started on safety….that’s another topic for another day.

You take care of yourself by eating well, trying to avoid known toxins, staying active. You stumble upon the “green beauty” section. Perfect! Right up my alley. Products labeled “organic” must be organic, right? Food that is labeled organic must be approved by the USDA and go through rigorous standards to bear that label so I am certain products we are slathering all over our bodies are the same. WRONG. Don’t believe me? The FDA website clearly states: “FDA does not define or regulate the term “organic,” as it applies to cosmetics, body care, or personal care products.” So then who does?

The answer is no one does. You are on your own here. And this is why you need to become a label reading ninja. You need to be able to move past the fancy labels and marketing terms to understand what you are getting. Just because the label has a leaf and some green lettering doesn’t mean a thing!

Beginning to understand labels…

Often times ingredients will be listed as organic on the product and have an asterisk which offers some info on who certified this as organic. However, if a company is claiming it has organic ingredients, it is okay to ask them for more information. If they have nothing to hide, they’ll tell you. If they can’t (won’t) tell you anything that is a big red flag.

Organic and natural …

Keep in mind most products with an “organic” label or do contain some type of ingredient that is organic. Due to the lack of regulation, it can literally be a fraction of a percent and one of the last ingredients listed. Phrases like “made with organic ingredients” is usually an indicator to look more closely at the ingredient list. Hiding a tiny bit of an organic plant extract into an otherwise toxic cocktail of ingredients is not going to cut it.

Another flashy sales word is “natural”. The FDA hasn’t even defined this term for cosmetic use or established how it should be used or regulated in cosmetic manufacturing. Additionally, keep in mind that just because something is natural in no way indicates safety. There are a lot of natural things that you don’t want near your body (hello poison ivy?). People with food sensitives, food allergies, seasonal allergies or any kind of adverse reaction to things need to be especially leery of ingredients, even those derived from plants.

It makes me cringe when people say “I only use natural products.” I find it misleading from a safety standpoint to promote only using natural. What is your definition of natural because there isn’t a legal definition that brands are following across the board? There are quite a few synthetic ingredients that have been shown to be safe and that serve a valid purpose in personal care products. Because of this, don’t shy away just because you see a few synthetic ingredients. Do your homework and figure out what they are and why they are in there. Another phrase that makes my skin crawl is “We don’t use any chemicals.” Well that’s just not true. Chemicals are everywhere and they are not all bad. For instance, Water is also a chemical. Salt is a chemical. What you want to avoid are toxic chemicals.

Final thoughts and shopping takeaways:

First, begin by reading labels. Next, understand ingredients. Look closely at marketing tactics. Consumers are smart, savvy and educated now. Don’t fall for deceptive branding. Find a few brands you trust that are transparent in their products, ingredients and marketing. Do your homework before you incorporate new products into your regimen, especially with children. After that, share what you know with friends and help get the word out. Above all, companies listen to the power of the dollar. Every time we make a purchase we are casting a vote for what we want to see on shelves.

Next, let’s keeping skin looking gorgeous while wearing a mask